My Munda Biddi Trail Adventure
If you've been wondering why things have been a little quiet on my blog lately, I can assure you I haven't abandoned writing, taken up permanent residence in a library or run out of things to say. I've simply been otherwise occupied.
For the past 22 days, I've exchanged my writing desk for a mountain bike and my keyboard for a CamelBak, completing 1,064 kilometres along Western Australia's magnificent Munda Biddi Trail.
It was an adventure with spectacular scenery, wonderful people, a few technical issues, two unscheduled laydowns (falls) and the occasional question about why I thought this was such a good idea in the first place and lots of Type II fun.
The Munda Biddi is a remarkable trail. Winding through the forests and towns of the south-west of Western Australia, with all but 5% being off the bitumen.
Travelling by bike provides a very different perspective on the region. It gives you time to appreciate the landscape, notice the small things, discover places you might otherwise pass quickly and get fit along the way.
The people make the journey
One of the real highlights was the companionship on the track. From day six through to the end, I was fortunate to have three excellent riding companions: Dave, Flash and Judith. I wouldn’t have finished the ride without them.
Long-distance cycling has a way of bringing people together. There are kilometres to cover, hills to climb, mechanical problems to solve and the occasional discussion about whether the next town is really as far away as the map suggests. There is also plenty of time for conversation, laughter and the sharing in the satisfaction of reaching the day's destination.
Of course, not everything went according to plan. I fell off the bike twice. Neither occasion was particularly dignified, but I was glad I was wearing my helmet and CamelBak as they saved me from injury when I landed heavily on the gravel.
Then there were the mechanical problems. My rear rack and pannier bags developed trouble, requiring attention and an increasing number of cable ties and bungee straps along the way. There is nothing quite as annoying as trying to keep luggage attached to a bicycle on bumpy roads when you still have hundreds of kilometres to go. It certainly gave me a greater appreciation of the engineering involved in a reliable off-road touring setup.
Towns, characters and unexpected experiences
The towns along the Munda Biddi are an important part of its appeal. Each has its own character, history and welcome, and the experience would be considerably poorer without them.
Dwellingup was a welcome return, including another night in one of the walkers' rooms. Familiar accommodation after a day in the saddle, particularly when it offers a rustic but comfortable place to recover before the next stage was apprecaitred.
Donnybrook provided a rather different form of entertainment. We arrived in time to watch (most of) the AFL Grand Final. There are worse ways to spend an afternoon after a long ride, although I suspect the mainly purple crowd would have liked a different result.
Nannup delivered one of the more memorable nights of the trip. A wild thunderstorm rolled through, accompanied by hail, while we were sheltering in the town’s brewery (having fortunately already put up our tents). Listening to rain hammering the tent, with thunder and lightning, provided a wet and memorable soundtrack to the night. It was an experience that made you appreciate the difference between being adventurous and being comfortably indoors. Thankfully, the storm passed by the following morning.
Northcliffe was, as always, full of character. It is one of those places where you never quite know who you will meet or what conversations will develop. Small country towns have a wonderful ability to produce memorable encounters, and Northcliffe certainly didn't disappoint. A terrific meal at the Naught Noodle Bar topped things off.
And then there was Donnelly River Village; a delightful step back in time. Arriving there is like time travelling to the 1960s. The old timber settlement, its cottages, historic buildings and peaceful surroundings (cut off from mobile coverage) offer a glimpse to a different life. The scones at the café provided a generous and tasty calorie boost too.
The unique attractions
While the towns and people made the journey memorable, the forests were undoubtedly the stars of the show. The Munda Biddi passes through some magnificent country. Towering trees, winding forest tracks, secluded rivers and beaches with constantly changing light create an environment that is impossible to appreciate from within a passing vehicle.
There were wildflowers and an abundance of wildlife (including a few snakes). The occasional sighting or unexpected encounter added another dimension to the ride. Even the quieter stretches, where the only sounds were tyres on gravel, birdsong and the wind through the trees, were special.
There is something satisfying about spending hours moving through this landscape under your own steam. You become more aware of the terrain, the weather and the changing environment. You notice things that would otherwise escape your attention. It is also a wonderful reminder of the natural richness of Western Australia and the importance of protecting these places for future generations.
Another adventure completed
Completing 1,064 kilometres is satisfying, but the distance itself isn't what I will remember most. It will be the companionship, the hospitality and characters encountered along the way.
Long-distance walking has taught me much about persistence and resilience. Cycling the Munda Biddi reinforced those lessons, albeit with a different set of muscles involved.
Perhaps the greatest lesson is that there is still plenty to discover. There are trails to explore, people to meet, challenges to undertake and stories to tell. So, having parked the bike, thrown out the useless panniers and reclaimed my writing desk, I'm looking forward to getting back to the business of writing. Although I suspect it won't be too long before I'm looking for my next adventure. After all, there are still plenty of kilometres left in these old legs.
Comments